The main islands of the Saronic Gulf are within easy reach of Athens, either by ferry or hydrofoil.
The ferry boats take about 2 1/2 hours to Poros and between 4-5 hours to Spetses,
while the hydrofoil (flying dolphin) will take I hour to Poros and just under 2 hours to Spetses.
However you will pay about twice as much for the flying dolphin. Call the harbourmaster
for details: 4226 000.
At first sight Poros sees to be surrounded by mountains, as though the sea is a big inland lake,
this gives a sensation of calm, which the busy harbour- front tends to dispel.
| However it's cheap and easy to hire a bike (motorized or otherwise) and pedal your way to peace around the island. There are lots of little deserted bays ideal for swimming and picnicking. Galatea, just ten minutes away by sea-taxi, has wonderful lemon groves which one ascend on donkey-back. |
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The restaurant at the top does a very nice line in fresh lemon juice culled from the trees you've
just passed through. Poros harbour-front comes into its own in the evenings, with the yachts bobbing
at anchor and the unmistakable smell of octopus cooking on charcoal from the little ouzeries.
There seem to an unfair amount of sky and stars in a Poros night, which has its own compelling
atmosphere. It is hard to describe, you'll just have to experience it. In contrast,
Spetses has quite a robust feeling to it. The people were (and are) shipbuilders of repute, tough
sailors and quite possibly pirates too. The indomitable Bouboulina is their heroine in the struggle
against the Turks. Her house can be seen in the Dapia by the port. Spetses always brings
John Fowles to mind, he wrote The Magus here, and you can see why. There's a definite feeling
of cloven hooves disappearing among; the pine trees. There are only a few cars on Spetses,
and due to the narrow streets, most of the transport is on motorbike or horse-drawn carriage.
The old harbor has charming old houses and is quieter than the lively central square. There are
some lovely shore-side restaurants and bars. Sea-taxis take you to several different spots for
a day of swimming, a meal or a snack at the beach side tavern, and pick you up in the evening.
Spetses makes you feel that you are at the beginning of something, on the edge of a brave
new world of your own maybe?